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> Slightly leaky frost plug
webmonster
post 17 Jul 2013, 00:21
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The Guzzler has the domed type of frost plug and the one closest to the radiator on the side of the block is a bit drippy.

Should I simply give it a bit of a whump with a hammer to spread it out a bit more?

I drained the block when I replaced the engine mounts because I needed to undo the bottom hose and it was perhaps a week before I put coolant back in again. Not sure if this would have upset anything.

Carbs and heatshield are still off, so access is reasonably good...
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BILLA
post 17 Jul 2013, 06:46
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hi webmonster ,we call them core plugs over here, you could try spreading it a bit more but ive found once they start to leek
its because they have rotted away from the inside even though they appear perfect from the outside. bill
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Howard Dent
post 17 Jul 2013, 06:55
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QUOTE (BILLA @ 17 Jul 2013, 07:46 ) *
hi webmonster ,we call them core plugs over here, you could try spreading it a bit more but ive found once they start to leek
its because they have rotted away from the inside even though they appear perfect from the outside. bill


I concur - in my experience, when they leak (assuming you haven't just fitted them!) they are telling you they've had their day, and generally they're rotten.

At least it's partly stripped...
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webmonster
post 17 Jul 2013, 08:41
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QUOTE (Howard Dent @ 17 Jul 2013, 18:55 ) *
I concur - in my experience, when they leak (assuming you haven't just fitted them!) they are telling you they've had their day, and generally they're rotten.

At least it's partly stripped...

Rats. New ones were fitted when the engine was rebuilt 15-ish years ago and I was pretty sure they were brass not iron ones...
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Danny
post 17 Jul 2013, 09:46
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the brass domed type welch-core-freeze-expansion plug needs more of a wallop than the other sort in my experience as they are harder to spread. they look as though they're done but drop out later (usually before 15 years though)

Danny
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matthew.h
post 17 Jul 2013, 10:37
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15 years is the life time for them before they go dripy so all new ones when one goes in that way you know that you got another 15 years before they leak and if you just do one you bound to have another leak hidden and may drain all your water ending up overheating
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webmonster
post 9 Oct 2013, 10:44
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Righto, I'll have a crack at replacing the core plug when I've got the radiator out (hopefully fairly soon).

As I recall the domed plugs don't fit straight in - before I had the engine rebuilt I had a go at replacing them. I remember struggling and eventually having to increase the peak of the dome so it would even fit in the hole. Or had I done it completely wrong? Are the domed plugs the only option?
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Llansadwrn
post 9 Oct 2013, 12:58
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QUOTE (webmonster @ 9 Oct 2013, 04:44 ) *
Righto, I'll have a crack at replacing the core plug when I've got the radiator out (hopefully fairly soon).

As I recall the domed plugs don't fit straight in - before I had the engine rebuilt I had a go at replacing them. I remember struggling and eventually having to increase the peak of the dome so it would even fit in the hole. Or had I done it completely wrong? Are the domed plugs the only option?


I am not familiar with the Isis plugs, but in general I have found that it helps to lightly chamfer the outer edge of any frost plug, plus take a nice sharp little 3 point file and scrape around the hole to remove corrosion. Then they always seem to go in.
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Llansadwrn
post 9 Oct 2013, 14:52
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.... further thought: are the domed plugs meant to be dished once you have them seated?
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Howard Dent
post 9 Oct 2013, 17:51
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QUOTE (Llansadwrn @ 9 Oct 2013, 15:52 ) *
.... further thought: are the domed plugs meant to be dished once you have them seated?


No, merely indented/flattened in the centre - and I think you probably just need to clean your hole a little more Robert (ooer missus!); they should be a snug fit in the parent bore but you shouldn't have to struggle to get them in.

That's my two pennyworth anyway!
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webmonster
post 2 Oct 2015, 00:07
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Zombie thread resurrection from two years ago...

I'm looking at finally replacing the core plugs in the next day or two.

Can I do the ones along the side with the engine 'in situ'?
I realise there is one at the back, but it is not leaking and can wait until I need to change the clutch (and hopefully the gearbox for a 4-speed overdrive) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Llansadwrn
post 2 Oct 2015, 00:21
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QUOTE (webmonster @ 1 Oct 2015, 18:07 ) *
Zombie thread resurrection from two years ago...

I'm looking at finally replacing the core plugs in the next day or two.

Can I do the ones along the side with the engine 'in situ'?
I realise there is one at the back, but it is not leaking and can wait until I need to change the clutch (and hopefully the gearbox for a 4-speed overdrive) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



I am no expert, but I found it impossible to fit core plugs without nice and easy access to them: no awkward angles or leaning over. I have only tried to replace a core plug in situ a couple of times though.
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webmonster
post 2 Oct 2015, 21:36
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Last time I tried in-situ was on the Guzzler about 20 years ago. Since then I have acquired some more appropriate equipment, such as a small ball pein hammer, rather than a clunky big claw hammer...

I asked Ralph about the core plugs when I picked up the cylinder head yesterday and he relayed a few secrets about fitting dish type plugs:
Make sure the seat in the block has a nice square edge and is nice and clean
Use a press to dish the plugs a bit more so they fit in the holes

I'll get Ralph to prepare some core plugs for me on Monday AM, then hopefully the Guzzler is up and running by Monday PM.
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