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> Late Isis engine mounts, Remove and replace
webmonster
post 23 Apr 2013, 00:04
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Now that I've got the heatshield and carbs out of the way, it seems an ideal time to replace the rather cracked looking engine mounts.

I've held the Austin Healey ones I've got up against the existing ones as best I can and they appear to be identical, except possibly for a locating dowel.

Now... without removing the engine what is a good way to do this?
I've got a pair of lugs for lifting a B-series engine, but unless I hire an engine crane I've got nothing to use them with.

Could I lift from underneath using jacks and lengths of wood where the sump bolts up, or will this crush the sump gasket, or be dangerous?

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The dizzy side is more cluttered, but I think I should get enough room if I remove the generator?
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Penguin45
post 23 Apr 2013, 00:26
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Trolley jack, block of wood, lift on the crank pulley? How much clearance do you need?

P45.
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Danny
post 23 Apr 2013, 00:35
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QUOTE
Trolley jack, block of wood, lift on the crank pulley?


I've lifted under the crank pulley on the 6/90s, it's a bit high so you need a decent jack or stand it on something substantial or interpose something safe twixt jack and pulley.

Danny

Edit: Can't jack under the sump on a 6/90 due to thumping great chassis rail!

This post has been edited by Danny: 23 Apr 2013, 00:42
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webmonster
post 23 Apr 2013, 09:21
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QUOTE (Penguin45 @ 23 Apr 2013, 12:26 ) *
Trolley jack, block of wood, lift on the crank pulley? How much clearance do you need?

Clearance... hopefully 2 inches or so should do it.

I could get the jack underneath the harmonic damper but not the pulley - there is a crossmember in the way.

But I can easily get to both sides towards the front of the sump with blocks of wood on each side.
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webmonster
post 23 Apr 2013, 09:23
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QUOTE (Danny @ 23 Apr 2013, 12:35 ) *
I've lifted under the crank pulley

So crankshaft etc. is OK with this sort of treatment?
(IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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webmonster
post 3 May 2013, 02:42
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I have to wait for the upper rebound buffers to arrive, but how does this arrangement look for jacking up the engine?
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The tops of the engine mounts have these lock-washers. Austin Healeys don't seem to use them, do any other cars? The centres look like they are 2 7/8" apart:
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Danny
post 3 May 2013, 02:54
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I think I would prefer to see a stout block of wood transverse to those two (parallel with the track rod) and jack on that if possible. Could you not get the trolley jack in there then?

Danny
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Llansadwrn
post 3 May 2013, 11:53
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You should lift from above not jack from below.
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webmonster
post 12 Jun 2013, 07:36
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I've managed to get hold of something that looks like it will do the trick as the engine mount rebound buffer:
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It is a front suspension buffer from a TR2 - easily available and about ukp4.

First job is to shorten the shaft to be 1.1" long and then get the tap & die to get the thread to go (almost) all the way down.
The rubber buffer itself will probably need to be trimmed - it is taller than the original ones. Hopefully it's width will be OK, but I can trim one side.
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webmonster
post 28 Jun 2013, 11:10
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After waiting an extremely long time for the 1st supplier to supply two of these I ruined them in the pursuit of the science of Morris Isis replacement parts...

...the 2nd supplier - Leacy classics - sent a pair off to NZ in no time at all for 1/2 the price.

This time I locked two nuts together after installing my newest toy err... tool - a 3/8 UNF thread cutter.
Much better. Now I have to cut the shaft to c. 1.1 inches and make a slot at the top for a screwdriver.
Lastly, I will probably have to cut some rubber off the end of the rubber buffer as it is thicker than the original one.

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webmonster
post 29 Jun 2013, 21:28
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...and here is the final version of the buffers alongside the best of the original ones:
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I used a sharp stanley knife to carefully cut the rubber buffer to size. I didn't cut a slot into the top of the shaft. I don't think it needs it and I could make a mess of that quite easily.

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A new engine mount compared to the old one. The only difference is a little locating lug which fits perfectly into the slots on the body-side bracket.

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The RH engine-side bracket with buffer pre-fitted. It attaches to the engine via 4 9/16" bolts, one of which is guaranteed not to line up with its hole.
LH assembly is much more annoying to remove and replace. Removing the front exhaust manifold might help but I left mine on.
The most difficult bit to deal with is the small reinforcing bracket; nothing will come off until this comes off. I had to experiment with how high the engine was jacked up and munting a bit with a large screwdriver helped get it off.
The jacking trick, screwdriver, piece of wood & hammer got it back on again.

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Seems a shame to have this lovely brass drain tap hidden away below the manifold.

Huzzah! With the mounts replaced I can start re-fitting everything else. Back on the road soon (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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webmonster
post 29 Jun 2013, 21:33
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The engine mounts are ukp8.75 each from ahspares
The rebound buffers are Triumph TR2-4A suspension buffers - ukp4 from Leacy classics
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