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> Phoebe is back
GodalmingYellow
post 18 Mar 2014, 16:54
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After more than 2 very long years of waiting, I finally have Phoebe back, looking very attractive in her new shiny Black over Swiss Grey coat.

Lots more problems have arisen in those 2 years, but at least the body work is now back to how it should be.
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mwgiesbrecht
post 18 Mar 2014, 18:52
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Oh! Very nice!
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webmonster
post 19 Mar 2014, 06:25
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Looks good, Terry - much nicer than the ancient photos you shared on picasa(?) for a while (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

What's next on your 'to-do' list?
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GodalmingYellow
post 19 Mar 2014, 09:37
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Crikey, where to stat!

I bought some new chrome parts (handles, locks, headlamp rims) from India. I won't make that mistake again. The quality is shocking, and the headlamp rims are corroding already, even with the car covered up. I'm hoping I have a set of NOS spares somewhere. So they will all need replacing.

The front bumper is from an Oxford and came with the car, but thanks to Howard, I have an Isis replacement that just needs re-chroming, so that is high on the list.

I also have a set of rimbellishers that need re-chroming, which I hope to do reasonably early.

The car has been rewired with a replica loom, but the auto sparks has left a few wires unconnected, so I need to trace the wiring to find out what he has missed.

The roof lining has been replaced inside, but the fitter removed the interior light and didn't refit it. So that needs doing.

You'll see that I have had the wing mirrors removed now that classic cars do not require MOTs in the UK (it still passed without them!).

When refitting the rear screen, the fitters couldn't get the chrome insert in. I tried myself and it is gruesomely difficult. I'll have to have another go. I am a bit worried that the restorer has lost the end piece covers for the insert.

I've had the later added internal flasher light removed and the hole filled and dashboard repainted. So I need to connect that to the amber light on the speedo.

The horn bar on the steering wheel has not been connected since I've owned the car so that needs fixing, and the push button later added needs to be removed.

I would love to put an overdrive on.

I still need to resolve the final drive ratios as the speedo reads 20-25% higher than actual speed.

Again as MOT is not required, I may well remove later added flashers and reinstate the trafficators. I'll do the trafficators anyway.

I would also love to find and fit a valve radio.

The carpets desperately need renewal and upholstery hasn't improved over the last 2 years either, but I would like to keep the original for as long as possible.

I have a set of door rubbers and sponges, which I tried to fit, but couldn't work out how to do so. I've got the original continuous clips which hold in the carpet as well, and some other clips I found on ebay. None of the manuals show how to fit these and they kept falling off when I tried.

I have some replacement chrome parts that need threaded pieces brazed on (I'm told they can't be welded due to material used for the chrome parts being likely to melt).

One of the two horns is missing and needs replacing.

The heater valve on the side of the engine is seized I think as heater is always on.

I would like to replace the dog so the starter handle can be used again, but that is low on the list as I suspect it is not an easy task.

I also have replacement bonnet cable, as the existing one is missing it's handle and the bonnet doesn't latch as well as it should.

The restorer rather clumsiliy took a small piece from the nearside front external handle bracket (small c shaped bracket that holds the handle), and the handle struggles to stay put.

But apart from that....

I'm not in a hurry with most of the above, and as I am also restoring an old house, it will be some time before Phoebe is finished. I would like to get the door rubbers and sponges on though to ensure water tightness, as I am thinking of entering the London to Brighton rally this year.
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Howard Dent
post 19 Mar 2014, 22:46
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QUOTE (GodalmingYellow @ 19 Mar 2014, 09:37 ) *
Crikey, where to stat!

I bought some new chrome parts (handles, locks, headlamp rims) from India. I won't make that mistake again. The quality is shocking, and the headlamp rims are corroding already, even with the car covered up. I'm hoping I have a set of NOS spares somewhere. So they will all need replacing.

The front bumper is from an Oxford and came with the car, but thanks to Howard, I have an Isis replacement that just needs re-chroming, so that is high on the list.

I also have a set of rimbellishers that need re-chroming, which I hope to do reasonably early.

The car has been rewired with a replica loom, but the auto sparks has left a few wires unconnected, so I need to trace the wiring to find out what he has missed.

The roof lining has been replaced inside, but the fitter removed the interior light and didn't refit it. So that needs doing.

You'll see that I have had the wing mirrors removed now that classic cars do not require MOTs in the UK (it still passed without them!).

When refitting the rear screen, the fitters couldn't get the chrome insert in. I tried myself and it is gruesomely difficult. I'll have to have another go. I am a bit worried that the restorer has lost the end piece covers for the insert.

I've had the later added internal flasher light removed and the hole filled and dashboard repainted. So I need to connect that to the amber light on the speedo.

The horn bar on the steering wheel has not been connected since I've owned the car so that needs fixing, and the push button later added needs to be removed.

I would love to put an overdrive on.

I still need to resolve the final drive ratios as the speedo reads 20-25% higher than actual speed.

Again as MOT is not required, I may well remove later added flashers and reinstate the trafficators. I'll do the trafficators anyway.

I would also love to find and fit a valve radio.

The carpets desperately need renewal and upholstery hasn't improved over the last 2 years either, but I would like to keep the original for as long as possible.

I have a set of door rubbers and sponges, which I tried to fit, but couldn't work out how to do so. I've got the original continuous clips which hold in the carpet as well, and some other clips I found on ebay. None of the manuals show how to fit these and they kept falling off when I tried.

I have some replacement chrome parts that need threaded pieces brazed on (I'm told they can't be welded due to material used for the chrome parts being likely to melt).

One of the two horns is missing and needs replacing.

The heater valve on the side of the engine is seized I think as heater is always on.

I would like to replace the dog so the starter handle can be used again, but that is low on the list as I suspect it is not an easy task.

I also have replacement bonnet cable, as the existing one is missing it's handle and the bonnet doesn't latch as well as it should.

The restorer rather clumsiliy took a small piece from the nearside front external handle bracket (small c shaped bracket that holds the handle), and the handle struggles to stay put.

But apart from that....

I'm not in a hurry with most of the above, and as I am also restoring an old house, it will be some time before Phoebe is finished. I would like to get the door rubbers and sponges on though to ensure water tightness, as I am thinking of entering the London to Brighton rally this year.


Welcome back Terry - sounds like I really do need to take a look!
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GodalmingYellow
post 20 Mar 2014, 07:28
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QUOTE (Howard Dent @ 19 Mar 2014, 22:46 ) *
Welcome back Terry - sounds like I really do need to take a look!


You are of course always welcome Howard. I'm up in Ambrosden most weekends.
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webmonster
post 20 Mar 2014, 10:07
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This is a decent list!
Should keep you out of the pub for a while (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

QUOTE (GodalmingYellow @ 19 Mar 2014, 22:37 ) *
I bought some new chrome parts (handles, locks, headlamp rims) from India. I won't make that mistake again. The quality is shocking, and the headlamp rims are corroding already, even with the car covered up. I'm hoping I have a set of NOS spares somewhere. So they will all need replacing.

The front bumper is from an Oxford and came with the car, but thanks to Howard, I have an Isis replacement that just needs re-chroming, so that is high on the list.

I also have a set of rimbellishers that need re-chroming, which I hope to do reasonably early.

I did observe the Oxford front bumper (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/coffee.gif) For non-Isis owners, the Isis front bumber has a bit of an inset so the numberplate can sit a bit higher. Must help heaps with aerodynamics...
Pity to hear about the quality of the Indian bits. Howard was saying that non-HM sourced parts can be very bad quality.

Will the rimbellishers re-chrome OK? I've got 6 of them, but no clips to affix them with. What do they look like, and has anyone got any spare ones?

QUOTE
The car has been rewired with a replica loom, but the auto sparks has left a few wires unconnected, so I need to trace the wiring to find out what he has missed.

The roof lining has been replaced inside, but the fitter removed the interior light and didn't refit it. So that needs doing.

You could try switching things on and see where sparks/smoke/crackling comes from (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)
QUOTE
Again as MOT is not required, I may well remove later added flashers and reinstate the trafficators. I'll do the trafficators anyway.

I would also love to find and fit a valve radio.

Keeping flashers is probably a good idea, but the big orange lenses you've got at the front are a bit yucky. A dual filament bulb in the sidelight lens is what the factory did for LHD cars with flashers. And you must get the trafficators going again. That is mandatory.

You could fit (and hide) a modern stereo...
QUOTE
The carpets desperately need renewal and upholstery hasn't improved over the last 2 years either, but I would like to keep the original for as long as possible.

I have a set of door rubbers and sponges, which I tried to fit, but couldn't work out how to do so. I've got the original continuous clips which hold in the carpet as well, and some other clips I found on ebay. None of the manuals show how to fit these and they kept falling off when I tried.

The heater valve on the side of the engine is seized I think as heater is always on.

If the seat leather is not completely ripped and shredded then try giving it a clean and rub stuff into it.
Have you got a photo of the door seals?
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GodalmingYellow
post 24 Mar 2014, 13:47
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I have the rimbellishers but like you, no clips (yet). To begin with I'm using a gentle chrome cleaning paste (as used on the chrome bits on Harley Davidson bikes) to clean up the chrome. 3 of the rimbellishers are in pretty good condition already. 1 is not so good but the paste works miracles and it is already beginning to shine. If I have to have them re-chromed, then I will, but I'm hoping the elbow grease will be enough. On the clips, Howard promised me some ages ago, so I have first dibs on his!! :-)

The wiring is one thing that is pretty easy on the Isis from what I can see. Just a case of time and seeing what works and what doesn't. I had a few sparks and a small shock when I tried to connect up the clock! I think the clock might need to go away for some hospitalisation!

The dual filaments sound like a decent idea on the front. Agreed about the existing front flashers.

No modern stuff allowed on the car, and most definitely not as regards the stereo. Next you'll be asking me to put in bouncy shocks to really pimp it up!

Seat leather has several rips, but it smells great and is still very comfy. I've rubbed leather cream in which will hopefully preserve them a bit longer.

I've resolved one of the jobs on the list this weekend. I drained the cooling system, radiator, block and heater. Forward and reverse flushed the heater, flushed the rad. Removed the heater control valve, cleaned it up and got it working again, polished the outside and re-fit it (despite the best efforts of my sausage fingers dropping the gasket down between the starter motor and clutch housing/rear of engine housing, which was not easy to recover) including adjusting the cable to the correct length for opening and closing the valve. Must have taken out 200 litres of sludgy brown water with the flushing (the restorer falsely claimed to have already done this). Got the water running almost clear and re-filled with anti-freeze/summer coolant. Replaced the 10lb rad cap with a 4lb one. Heater in the car now works properly with heater, blower and cool air all available on demand. My only concerns are that the engine now seems to run a little cold, so I guess the thermostat may be stuck open, and to get to within 1/2 and inch of the bottom of the rad filler neck only needed about 3.5 litres of liquid (mostly double concentrated anti-freeze). After a 5 mile round trip, the water level was still the same. I don't see how I could get any more liquid out of the car to refill and the manual says there should be more like 15 litres in there. At least I'm not losing any water anywhere, and I can take water around with me for a while.

Another problem to add to the list now though. The fuel pump died yesterday. I don't really understand much about fuel pumps, other than they suck in one end and blow out of the other. From what I can gather, for some reason, the original SU HP types had contact points, though I have no idea why. It seems possible to get the AUA67 on ebay (from other BMC cars for less than £100 e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Mini-ele...=item43c727df06 which seems to have the AUA4080 body and this one "looks" close too http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SU-Fuel-Pump-/22...=item338c4e7e5d ) . The part fitted was a silver top Facet negative earth sealed unit with a regulator, with the neg earth casing wired to live mounted on rubber blocks to prevent earthing out, and live terminal earthed. I assume these slightly more modern units don't have need of contacts. I can get identical ones of these units on ebay as well for a similar price to an original. I'm all for keeping things as original as possible, and I could remove the regulator to fit an original unit, but not if it means shed loads of hassle (e.g. setting points every five minutes). I would be very interested to hear any views on this, and an explanation in simpleton terms, of the difference between the types of pump. Would an AUA 66 low pressure SU unit work without the regulator, or would the flow rate be too low? I only ask because the AUA66 seems to be a much more commonly available unit being from the Minor range.

I'll get some pics of the rubbers and original clips. I know the rubbers and sponges are fine because Howard got them for me.

Thanks for the ongoing help and advice chaps and chapesses.

This post has been edited by GodalmingYellow: 24 Mar 2014, 14:00
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Llansadwrn
post 24 Mar 2014, 14:59
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3.5 litres instead of 15 litres!? That's quite a discrepancy. Rather than your thermostat being stuck open I'd worry it's stuck closed, and does not have the little bleeder hole drilled in it. If there's no water in there, the air in the dry block can get very hot but the thermostat still won't open. Five miles isn't far, so hopefully you won't have cooked anything, but don't run it until you've solved this issue.
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GodalmingYellow
post 25 Mar 2014, 02:46
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QUOTE (Llansadwrn @ 24 Mar 2014, 14:59 ) *
3.5 litres instead of 15 litres!? That's quite a discrepancy. Rather than your thermostat being stuck open I'd worry it's stuck closed, and does not have the little bleeder hole drilled in it. If there's no water in there, the air in the dry block can get very hot but the thermostat still won't open. Five miles isn't far, so hopefully you won't have cooked anything, but don't run it until you've solved this issue.


Except the engine is running cold rather than hot. The temp guage was noticeably lower than pre-flushing levels.

The 3.5 litres was anti freeze, I did add some water, but nothing like 10 + litres worth.

I imagine there would have been a little left in the block due to the positioning of the drain valve and that the car was on a very slight slope. As you say, 5 miles isn't far for the temperature to reach thermostat opening time.

This post has been edited by GodalmingYellow: 25 Mar 2014, 02:47
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Llansadwrn
post 25 Mar 2014, 03:00
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QUOTE (GodalmingYellow @ 24 Mar 2014, 20:46 ) *
Except the engine is running cold rather than hot. The temp guage was noticeably lower than pre-flushing levels.

The 3.5 litres was anti freeze, I did add some water, but nothing like 10 + litres worth.

I imagine there would have been a little left in the block due to the positioning of the drain valve and that the car was on a very slight slope. As you say, 5 miles isn't far for the temperature to reach thermostat opening time.


I wouldn't argue if I had not had this happen to me, admittedly on a 6.6 litre Duramax diesel engine: My engine had a coolant hose burst soon after I started up and must have puked out all the coolant in a matter of a couple of minutes. I smelled a whiff of antifreeze, but didn't think too much of that. My "low coolant" light came on, but it has always been overly sensitive, so I didn't stop for that either..... a bit thick, you're thinking, no doubt........ but my temperature gauge was fine, running nice and cool. After about 6 miles, I noticed my temperature gauge hop up and down, then a mile or so later it did it again. I was concerned enough to stop, pop the bonnet, and found that I had a coolant-less engine! This is why I would not be at all sure that my engine was running cool, if I were you, on the basis of the gauge. Does your thermostat have a bleed hole in the flat plate part? If not, then it is possible that you are running with little or no coolant in your engine, and that all the coolant you have is in your radiator.

Edit: I suppose I should add that my engine had become very hot indeed, despite the gauge reading cool, and that adding water led to the most tremendous hissing and explosive banging...... I was extremely lucky, which goes to show that angels sometimes smile upon the dim witted. A Duramax engine costs $10 to $20,000, and I have had 30,000 miles or more out of it since that day. Now of course I always stop if the low coolant light comes on, on any vehicle.

This is just a safe rather than sorry suggestion...... I would not run the car until you are sure you have sufficient coolant.

This post has been edited by Llansadwrn: 25 Mar 2014, 03:14
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webmonster
post 25 Mar 2014, 08:05
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If it is a water temperature sensor then it needs water around it to work...

...and who is to say that the temperature sender works correctly, or is the correct unit?

When I got my Isis it had no thermostat and the sender did not work. I got a new thermostat and a replacement sender from the local auto parts shop. But it was the wrong sender and never worked.
I blew out a frost plug on an expressway (I didn't know this), but I was only 5 minutes from home. I got home thinking everything was fine but as soon as I stopped steam and smoke were coming from the under the bonnet...

Engine paint *not* turned black and nothing seized, but obviously I had cooked the rings. It made a *lot* of smoke.
I fitted a 2nd hand sender from a series III Oxford and the gauge worked again.
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GodalmingYellow
post 25 Mar 2014, 09:46
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QUOTE (Llansadwrn @ 25 Mar 2014, 03:00 ) *
I wouldn't argue if I had not had this happen to me, admittedly on a 6.6 litre Duramax diesel engine: My engine had a coolant hose burst soon after I started up and must have puked out all the coolant in a matter of a couple of minutes. I smelled a whiff of antifreeze, but didn't think too much of that. My "low coolant" light came on, but it has always been overly sensitive, so I didn't stop for that either..... a bit thick, you're thinking, no doubt........ but my temperature gauge was fine, running nice and cool. After about 6 miles, I noticed my temperature gauge hop up and down, then a mile or so later it did it again. I was concerned enough to stop, pop the bonnet, and found that I had a coolant-less engine! This is why I would not be at all sure that my engine was running cool, if I were you, on the basis of the gauge. Does your thermostat have a bleed hole in the flat plate part? If not, then it is possible that you are running with little or no coolant in your engine, and that all the coolant you have is in your radiator.

Edit: I suppose I should add that my engine had become very hot indeed, despite the gauge reading cool, and that adding water led to the most tremendous hissing and explosive banging...... I was extremely lucky, which goes to show that angels sometimes smile upon the dim witted. A Duramax engine costs $10 to $20,000, and I have had 30,000 miles or more out of it since that day. Now of course I always stop if the low coolant light comes on, on any vehicle.

This is just a safe rather than sorry suggestion...... I would not run the car until you are sure you have sufficient coolant.


Thx Llansadwrn, all good advice and I shall be checking it out at the next opportunity.
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GodalmingYellow
post 25 Mar 2014, 09:50
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QUOTE (webmonster @ 25 Mar 2014, 08:05 ) *
If it is a water temperature sensor then it needs water around it to work...

...and who is to say that the temperature sender works correctly, or is the correct unit?

When I got my Isis it had no thermostat and the sender did not work. I got a new thermostat and a replacement sender from the local auto parts shop. But it was the wrong sender and never worked.
I blew out a frost plug on an expressway (I didn't know this), but I was only 5 minutes from home. I got home thinking everything was fine but as soon as I stopped steam and smoke were coming from the under the bonnet...

Engine paint *not* turned black and nothing seized, but obviously I had cooked the rings. It made a *lot* of smoke.
I fitted a 2nd hand sender from a series III Oxford and the gauge worked again.


Certainly worth checking, but I know the guage was working before, and I know that it is working now, it is just reading at a maybe 15% lower level. I appreciate that is no cast iron guarantee though.

If there is an "air lock" in the block, how is it even possible to force liquid in and air out? Is it just a case of driving it for a while (with plenty of water for a possible refill en route) to allow the air to rise up out through the rad and the pump (which is brand new) to send the water around the engine? Is it better to drive with the heater on to demand more hot water, or is it better to leave the heater off. I've presumed the former so far.

Anyway I'm not going to be able to do anything with the cooling system until I can get the fuel pump sorted. Any advice appreciated.

This post has been edited by GodalmingYellow: 25 Mar 2014, 09:54
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GodalmingYellow
post 25 Mar 2014, 11:30
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Ooh how exciting, I'm like a kid at Christmas with new toys!

I've just found that SU, the company that made the Isis carbs and fuel pumps, still exists and produces and sells updated equivalent positive earth fuel pumps for all Isis models. And carburettor parts as well.

http://sucarb.co.uk/cf/vehicle/list/?manuf...mp;vehicle=Isis
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Llansadwrn
post 25 Mar 2014, 13:27
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QUOTE (GodalmingYellow @ 25 Mar 2014, 03:50 ) *
If there is an "air lock" in the block, how is it even possible to force liquid in and air out?


I'll try writing this once more then!

There needs to be a 1/8" hole in the flat part of your thermostat. Not all vehicles require this to bleed air out of the block, but I imagine your engine does. Check your thermostat for this hole. Apologies if you have already done this..... if not then do this!

Here's a part of Google Images search for thermostat bleed hole:
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post 26 Mar 2014, 06:50
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QUOTE (GodalmingYellow @ 25 Mar 2014, 02:47 ) *
Howard promised me some ages ago, so I have first dibs on his!! :-)

I'd love to see some photos of the clips at the very least.
QUOTE
The wiring is one thing that is pretty easy on the Isis from what I can see. Just a case of time and seeing what works and what doesn't. I had a few sparks and a small shock when I tried to connect up the clock! I think the clock might need to go away for some hospitalisation!

The dual filaments sound like a decent idea on the front. Agreed about the existing front flashers.

For the clock - it has a feed independent of the ignition switch. I'd always unhook the battery first, connect up the clock, reconnect the battery and re-set the clock asap to prevent damage to the clock. Of course sparks or shocks at this point could indicate problems (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Dual filament bulbholders - they look good and work well. Probably not the most pressing thing to change on Phoebe though.
QUOTE
No modern stuff allowed on the car, and most definitely not as regards the stereo. Next you'll be asking me to put in bouncy shocks to really pimp it up!

Snoop Dogg won't be happy to hear you're not pimping your ride, then (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
QUOTE
Seat leather has several rips, but it smells great and is still very comfy. I've rubbed leather cream in which will hopefully preserve them a bit longer.

Might need to do this a few times. Nice to keep the original stuff as long as possible.

re: SU pump - yes, Burlen has all parts available, possibly even a 'points-less' +ve earth version (still with the clicking) for max. reliability. I've had very little problem with the original style ones, myself.
Rebuilding a pump from an Oxford is an option that could be cheaper than outright purchase.
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GodalmingYellow
post 26 Mar 2014, 09:33
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QUOTE (Llansadwrn @ 25 Mar 2014, 13:27 ) *
I'll try writing this once more then!

There needs to be a 1/8" hole in the flat part of your thermostat. Not all vehicles require this to bleed air out of the block, but I imagine your engine does. Check your thermostat for this hole. Apologies if you have already done this..... if not then do this!

Here's a part of Google Images search for thermostat bleed hole:


Many thanks Llansadwrn, I will definitely check this.
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Danny
post 26 Mar 2014, 10:59
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Are THESE the clips you are talking about?

Danny

PS: I have never needed a stat with a hole in it for any C Series engine.
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Llansadwrn
post 26 Mar 2014, 13:30
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QUOTE (Danny @ 26 Mar 2014, 04:59 ) *
Are THESE the clips you are talking about?

Danny

PS: I have never needed a stat with a hole in it for any C Series engine.


Now Danny..... here am I trying to convince Godalmingyellow that he might need a bit of liquid in the cooling passages in his engine when it's running, and you're not helping! If for some reason his block is not bleeding air when he's trying to fill it with coolant, at least it would be good to know it's got the bleeder hole in the thermostat to be another way for the bleeding to happen. There is no downside to having a bleeder hole.
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