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> 1957 Morris Oxford (series II), Webmonster's 'Moggy'
webmonster
post 19 Jan 2014, 23:33
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It has been far too long since Moggy moved under its own steam. My youngest daughter will be 6 this year and she has never had a ride in it. Time to get on with it then (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/coffee.gif)

So, today my littlest helper and I took the diff out. (I had drained the oil yesterday and pulled the half-shafts).
So easy to do when the gearbox and prop-shaft are out!

To my surprise the diff purports itself to be a 9/41 i.e. 4.55:1
Attached File  20140120_120046sm.jpg ( 53.6K ) Number of downloads: 0

I fitted this in ChCh long ago before I left for New Plymouth and I remember on my first drive thinking 'This diff is the same ratio as the old one'... which made me grumpy. So I was expecting it to be a standard 8/39 4.875:1 diff.
It seems very unlikely that someone would have replaced the crownwheel and pinion. I guess I can check by counting the number of teeth on the crownwheel.

I was going to rob this diff of its spider gears to fit on a 10/43 4.3:1 diff head to fit into the Oxford, but I think I'd prefer to find a standard Oxford diff - this ratio might be useful for the Cowley one day!

Rebecca (littlest helper) found the the gears inside the diff quite interesting, especially how you could turn the input flange and the 'middle bit moves' (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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webmonster
post 22 Jan 2014, 10:26
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I hope you are all sitting down.
Today I popped into the mechanic's workshop to do some clean-up and prep work for an hour or three...
...so there has been some work done on the Oxford's engine (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Sump, oil pump, main bearing caps.
No sludge and oil pump is in excellent shape, so it can go another time around.

Interestingly, the sump has red paint inside and out - I wonder if it is a spare parts dept. replacement and still has it's red oxide (or similar) paint?
Certainly the sump has no evidence of green paint.
Perhaps I should keep it red for faster acceleration and higher top speed (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Back at home this evening I removed the rear axle half shafts to clean and inspect both them and the hubs.
The splines on both half shafts seem to have worn a bit. Is this a problem?
Attached File  20140122_230721sm.jpg ( 78.27K ) Number of downloads: 0


I'm going in again tomorrow.
Progress at last (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Llansadwrn
post 22 Jan 2014, 15:34
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If that's a lip I can see, does it mean the half shaft has been sliding quite a bit?
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webmonster
post 23 Jan 2014, 08:18
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QUOTE (Llansadwrn @ 23 Jan 2014, 04:34 ) *
If that's a lip I can see, does it mean the half shaft has been sliding quite a bit?

Good question!
I can't imagine how it could - as far as I am aware the hub is firmly located.
I doubt is was the 'whip-quick' acceleration or torque from c.50bhp.
The clutch was pretty nasty and juddery for many years; that is about all I can think of. We need someone cleverer than us to give their opinion. Howard? (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I got more cleaning of engine parts done today. Fortunately the inside bits are clean - it is the exterior bits; mud, oil, grease.
Backplate & flywheel & gearbox & carb/aircleaner still to clean up. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the gearbox doesn't need pulling to bits right now.
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Howard Dent
post 25 Jan 2014, 10:07
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QUOTE (webmonster @ 23 Jan 2014, 08:18 ) *
Good question!
I can't imagine how it could - as far as I am aware the hub is firmly located.
I doubt is was the 'whip-quick' acceleration or torque from c.50bhp.
The clutch was pretty nasty and juddery for many years; that is about all I can think of. We need someone cleverer than us to give their opinion. Howard? (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I got more cleaning of engine parts done today. Fortunately the inside bits are clean - it is the exterior bits; mud, oil, grease.
Backplate & flywheel & gearbox & carb/aircleaner still to clean up. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the gearbox doesn't need pulling to bits right now.


You can have my opinion - but 'cleverer', I doubt it! I don't think that wear is anything too serious, after all it's taken 50 odd years to get that like that - you could try measuring the width of the spline at both ends of the wearing surface, it may be that it's merely whip in the shaft making the end of the spline mark? Your clutch juddering theory might be the answer but I'd don't think I'd dwell on it too long - after all the car is in it's retirement years now (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/coffee.gif)

If you were going to race it I might get more excited (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)
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webmonster
post 27 Jan 2014, 07:29
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QUOTE (Howard Dent @ 25 Jan 2014, 23:07 ) *
You can have my opinion - but 'cleverer', I doubt it! I don't think that wear is anything too serious, after all it's taken 50 odd years to get that like that - you could try measuring the width of the spline at both ends of the wearing surface, it may be that it's merely whip in the shaft making the end of the spline mark? Your clutch juddering theory might be the answer but I'd don't think I'd dwell on it too long - after all the car is in it's retirement years now (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/coffee.gif)

Ta muchly for your opinion, Howard.
The splines are not twisted, which would be bad news.
QUOTE
If you were going to race it I might get more excited (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

Bob had a youtube link to an awesome racing Riley 1.5 doing some laps filmed from inside the car!
...but I'm not doing that (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/coffee.gif)

But it is being uprated to about ZB Magnette levels. Hardly half-shaft shredding stuff (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

P.S. Andrew Pursey in Australia was getting c.120bhp from his 1533cc B-series in his Oxford.


I got a bit more cleaning of parts done today, most importantly the backplate.
I am intrigued at how rough the milling is on the front and back engine plates. Were later BMC front/back plates smoother?

Still have the gearbox exterior to clean and the exhaust/inlet manifold to clean and check. No fancy manifolds while the engine is being run in.
Not much left for me to clean... so the mechanic can get on with building the engine!
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enigmas
post 27 Jan 2014, 13:54
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QUOTE
P.S. Andrew Pursey in Australia was getting c.120bhp from his 1533cc B-series in his Oxford.
That's a lot BHP from a 1533 B series engine in a car of that weight. The engine would have to be incredibly peaky for that output. A standard, MGA twin cam, 1588cc engine develops 108 BHP and that's with the original high comp pistons, big valve cross flow hemispherical head, special crankshaft, heavy duty rods with fully floating pins and twin 1 3/4" SUs. These are also basically a B series block but minus some of the pushrod block features.

This post has been edited by enigmas: 27 Jan 2014, 13:57
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webmonster
post 27 Jan 2014, 20:00
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QUOTE (enigmas @ 28 Jan 2014, 02:54 ) *
That's a lot BHP from a 1533 B series engine in a car of that weight. The engine would have to be incredibly peaky for that output. A standard, MGA twin cam, 1588cc engine develops 108 BHP and that's with the original high comp pistons, big valve cross flow hemispherical head, special crankshaft, heavy duty rods with fully floating pins and twin 1 3/4" SUs. These are also basically a B series block but minus some of the pushrod block features.

From memory the main points are: a very high compression ratio, MGB big valve head, twin 1 3/4" SUs, custom manifolds and a billet crank. I think it red-lines at 6000rpm.
You know, I could probably just ask him. What a novel idea (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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webmonster
post 8 Jul 2014, 08:14
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Progress is imminent. No, really! (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
I got a parcel of useful stuff today from MGOC:
Attached File  20140708_171916sm.jpg ( 58.34K ) Number of downloads: 0


Mostly gearbox bits.
New Layshaft and bearings and seals and stuff. Also a spigot bush.
About the only thing they could not supply is the seals where the column change levers come through the cover plate.

Tomorrow I am going down the the mechanic's workshop after 10:30am, so hopefully I can get lots done!
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webmonster
post 11 Jul 2014, 08:24
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...and my mechanic and I got to spend a good few hours yesterday on the engine!

We got a short block assembled - pistons, crankshaft and camshaft.
It took a long time, but it all needs to be scrupulously clean and done right first time.

Even though the block had been in an acid bath I still dislodged some impressive scale from the water jacket with high pressure water.

So, today it will have made a trip down to the engine shop so they can cc the pistons and combustion chambers to make them all even, then Kerry can finish off the cylinder head.

My Dad found the Cowley's original diff in their garage and is sending it up to me so I can raid the spider gears to fit to the 10/43 (series VI Oxford) diff I have here. With back wheels on the Oxford can be moved.

So, progress is good!

Attached File  20140710_174756sm.jpg ( 107.35K ) Number of downloads: 0


The most pressing problem to solve is the mystery of the disappearing oil pump, strainer and pedestal...

This post has been edited by webmonster: 11 Jul 2014, 08:26
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webmonster
post 14 Jul 2014, 00:08
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The short block is down at the engine shop (Engine Rebuilders in New Plymouth) with the cylinder head. Exciting (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
In addition to evening up all the combustion chambers they're going to de-burr any rough edges and do some 'best-bang-for-the-buck' tidying up for better efficiency. Compression ratio will end up being no higher than 9:1, so I'm glad they know what they are doing (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
1489 MGA inlet and exhaust valves are ready to fit.

Next two things on my 'quick' list:
1. deal to the radiator grille - strip off old paint and re-finish.
2. send off the distributor to check operation and calibration for HC Oxford engine.
3. sort out carburation.

My mechanic speaks a lot of sense when he suggests changing to HS carburettors, but the H series 'looks right' and was originally fitted.
Give me your suggestions please!

For running in I was going to keep a 1.25" SU and decide a longer term solution later. My original 1.25" SU has a pretty worn throttle shaft and I have no idea yet if any machining needs to be done to make the holes round again. Should I order an overhaul kit and see what is what?
I am fairly happy fitting new cork seals and lining up jets for H series carbs - I did this on the Guzzlers 1.5" SUs.

My mechanic has a large number of HS2 carbs to choose from and I imagine we can find a pretty good one for running in.

Longer term I am considering overhauling and fitting a pair of ZB Magnette H4 carbs, but my mechanic also has HS4s available.

Having said all that, I might be very happy with a single 1.25" H2 carb... but I'm sorely tempted to have twin SUs to match the Guzzler (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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webmonster
post 13 Aug 2014, 08:27
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Some more progress.
The cylinder head & block have come back to the mechanic's from the engine workshop.
They have CC'd the cylinder head to ensure the combustion chambers match, fitted hardened valve seats, new valve stems and had a quick tidy up for better gas flow (without going silly!).
I'll find out more soon, including final compression ratio... and the price. I think I'd better be sitting down for that one... (IMG:http://www.wolseleyforum.com/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

I've also had the front grille soda blasted to get all the old paint off after the paint reaction that occurred.
Attached File  20140802_223442sm.jpg ( 52.39K ) Number of downloads: 0
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webmonster
post 5 Sep 2014, 10:31
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The cylinder head work came to $1300.
- Hardened exhaust seats, fit larger inlet and exhaust valves (supplied), new valve guides, 3 angle cut, tidy up the ports, take off sharp edges in the combustion chamber, pistons and combustion chambers CC'd for evenness.

The radiator grille I was not 100% happy with, and a chance conversation with the people who re-sealed my front windscreen (Novus, N.P.) discovered that they were just about to send a mk I Ford Escort over to Rotorua to be dip-stripped! So my humble grille went along for the ride. When it returns $70 will give me a beautifully prepared grille in etch primer.

Finally tonight I made a start on sorting out the spline gears on the 4.3:1 diff:
Attached File  20140905_215352sm.jpg ( 93.56K ) Number of downloads: 0


What I'm not sure of is how to remove the small locking/locating pin from of the 'jolly big pin' that holds the spider gears and stuff together.

Other question - the manual gives a torque setting of 60 lb ft for the Differential Bearing Cap Nuts. I assume I'm thinking of the correct nuts when I think of the 4 nuts that secure the 'C' shaped housing that I had to remove first of all?
Anyway - 60lb ft sounds like a lot. I'd hate to rip the studs out of the aluminium housing. Any other opinions?


Anyway - nice to have some progress - I see from this thread that I removed the diff back in January. Movin' fast, me... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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webmonster
post 14 Sep 2014, 10:05
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QUOTE (webmonster @ 5 Sep 2014, 22:31 ) *
What I'm not sure of is how to remove the small locking/locating pin from of the 'jolly big pin' that holds the spider gears and stuff together.

...daylight revealed a small hole in the crownwheel so you can poke the locking pin out.

Anyway, the point was somewhat moot because it turned out that I did not have a nice sharp drill bit in the correct size (stupid metric drill bits, mutter mutter), so I took the 8/41 and the 10/43 diff centres down to Steve's workshop along with some new thrust washers and asked him to swap the cogs and check it over for me.

Steve gave the bearings the 'OK' did the swap and peened over the locking pin. I took it all back home and gave the diff housing another clean with kerosene and replace the diff centre into the carrier. Bearing caps torqued down to 61ft lbs.

Just look at my pretty black paint:
Attached File  20140914_121148sm.jpg ( 42.69K ) Number of downloads: 0


Installing the 'new' 10/43 diff back into the axle was a pain; it did not want to go quietly and my smear of RTV on the gasket was happily setting. A bit of swearing and locating it using the nuts to ease it in did the trick.

Half-shafts were reinstalled using new paper gaskets and rubber o-rings (one hub is from a series III, the other I had a groove machined into it). Brake drums and wheels and a quick setting of the brake shoes and voila! Back on all 4 wheels at long last!

With the luxury of being able to roll it around I can now get onto reassembling the driver's door.
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webmonster
post 24 Oct 2014, 10:16
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Progress has been slow again.
However, I did receive some more stuff for the Oxford from MGOCspares.co.uk

New waterpump, clutch release bearing & clutch lever gaiter and some master cylinder parts: pushrods and yokes, metal cap, gaskets and pedal return springs.
Hurrah for BMC part #'s (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Attached File  20141024_191257sm.jpg ( 42.54K ) Number of downloads: 0


Attached File  20141024_191511sm.jpg ( 61.74K ) Number of downloads: 0


I decided to try a new waterpump because reconditioned ones are $140 + P&P

From a question I asked on facebook it seems highly likely that the waterpumps are the same ones as HM Ambassador diesel 1489 engines.
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matthew.h
post 24 Oct 2014, 11:13
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Just looking at the water pump it don't look right for the b engine. The bolt hole for the generator comeing from the housing don't look long enough for hold it...
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webmonster
post 25 Oct 2014, 00:10
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QUOTE (matthew.h @ 25 Oct 2014, 00:13 ) *
Just looking at the water pump it don't look right for the b engine. The bolt hole for the generator comeing from the housing don't look long enough for hold it...

I'll check it against the old one when I get a chance. I ordered an MGA one with exact corresponding BMC part #.
There is the possibility that they've sent me a late B-series 1798/1622 one...
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webmonster
post 21 Dec 2014, 21:43
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I was at the Wolseley car club's part shed working bee a few weeks ago and we raided an oil pump from a seized 1500 block, just in case we can't find my original one in a timely fashion.

Today I received my Oxford's rebuilt DM2 dizzy from Quality Rebuilds up in Auckland.
Looks great and I'd upload a photo of it... if my son had not run off with the USB cable. Tsk, teenagers... who'd 'ave em? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

My credit card was relieved of $288 for a complete rebuild and calibration, incl. rebuilt vac advance unit, bush(es) and new points and condenser. 'Leccy ignition can come later.

Today I'm sending off the original H2 carburetter down to Swift Automotive in Christchurch. He does a great job rebuilding SUs and he has all parts available. That'll be $300 for an as-new SU carb.
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matthew.h
post 23 Dec 2014, 07:21
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Did you had a look at that water pump and check that it's the same as the old one????
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webmonster
post 11 Jan 2015, 07:46
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I've now got a nice as-new distributor and will have an as-new H2 carb in a few days.

So today, with help from a friend's son, we removed the outer ball joints so that the steering gaiters could be removed and replaced.

After suitable belting of each tapered joint they came apart and we screwed off the ball joints (counting carefully!)

The outer jubilee clips holding the bellows on came off easily, but both inner ones were right buggers!
We had to drill the heads off the screws and on the LH one I couldn't even do that, so with a stanley knife and a screwdriver I cut as much rubber away as possible and then levered off and generally munted the jubilee clip.

The LH inner ball joint has a very small amount of play. I can feel it when pulling and pushing on it. Should I adjust this out? Anyone else done this before?

I've also got a replacement seal for the top of the steering gearbox - where the input shaft goes in. The seal is shared with MG TA-TC and is available from Brown and Gammons.
It looks like I will have to lift up the steering column to replace it, which I feel a little bit daunted about. Any advice about doing this?
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